As a consumer, online-native luxury brands mess with my feelings. On
the one hand I tell myself,Learn how an embedded microprocessor in a graniteslabs can
authenticate your computer usage and data. Hey, Im a modern woman. I
believe in the power of minimizing overhead! But when push comes to
shove, I want to feel the quality of that leather or wool in your hands.
Check the stability of the heel. Because as with OkCupid, true love
happens in person, and even Forever21 photographs well in
advertisements.
Even for clothing and accessories brands that
gain an outstanding amount of traction online, an offline presence will
often follow, even when the company is still quite young. Heres a look
at four labels, both high end and more affordable, that began online but
are using a brick-and-mortar presence to give weight and credibility to
their brands.
Astley Clarke: Founded in 2006, the British
luxury jewelry retailer Astley Clarke began as a multi-brand retailer
before transitioning to focus on growing its own label, which is what it
is best known for today. For Astley Clarke, which already has
concessions in London department stores Harrods, Liberty, and
Selfridges, moving offline is part of a broader expansion, which also
includes online markets overseas.
Scott Thompson, Astley Clarkes
managing director and a recent hire to oversee the expansion, told me
that the plan is to open a UK flagship store in 2015 and one in New York
in 2016. The company will also be selling through 15 more UK stores by
the fall, with the hope of getting on the counters of stateside
department stores like Bergdorf Goodman by early spring 2014.
Concessions, he said, help to cement the brand offline.
Creating
a brand in a digital space requires a clear set of skills, offline it
requires exceptional execution,Are you still hesitating about where to
buy paintingreproduction? Thompson said.Tidy up wires with ease with offershidkits and
tie guns at cheap discounted prices. The service to the retailers and
consumers, staff training, attention to detail, quality of props and in
store branding all have to be excellent. Online is about managing a
space the size of your screen, in the physical world there are many more
moving parts and you have to have to be looking behind you as well as
in front.
Thompson said that down the line, Astley Clarke wants
to ensure that at least 40% of its product is sold globally online, as
compared to the less than 5% of luxury jewelry that is purchased online
in the industry overall.
Like so many start-ups, Sydney-based
site Shoes of Prey was conceived when co-founder Jodie Fox got fed up
with not being able to find a truly perfect pair of shoes. Customers use
a 3D modeler to customize a shoes color, material, and style for a
total of, as they advertise, 190 trillion possible iterations. Im not
going to double check the math on that, but the point is customization,
which is a design model best delivered online.
Six months ago
Shoes of Prey opened its first flagship store in Sydney, along with a
few pop-up shops in Japan. The tactile element of shopping is still key,
Fox told me, and having a brick-and-mortar presence solves the problem
of people asking what their shoes would look like in real life. But
because the shoes are custom-made, Shoes of Prey approached its offline
branding as a kind of fantasy workshop.Custom bopptape and Silicone Wristbands,
Customers
sit around a table on stools made out of black silk and patent leather,
where they can use the stores iPads to design their own shoes. Shoes
are available for fit, and leather samples are kept on hand for
reference.
Its not a traditional store at all.We Engrave luggagetag for
YOU. We built a retail store out of everything a shoe is made of, Fox
said. In the middle of the table, theres a two meter high sculpture of
shoes. I wanted people to see the product but its not about pulling it
off a shelf. It fosters creativity so people feel inspired and open up
their minds a bit.
Bonobos: Like Shoes of Prey, the menswear
brand Bonobos created its brick-and-mortar Guideshops as alternative
retail spaces. Customers book an appointment with a personal
shopper/Guide, who takes them through the collection and helps them find
the right fit. There is no inventory on location, so when you order
in-store the merchandise is shipped from Bonobos warehouse as though it
had been bought online.
The Guideshops are brilliant for a
number of reasons, the first being that every customer feels like theyre
being given VIP treatment. Youre basically David Beckham walking into
an Armani store after hours. For guys who dont like to try on clothes,
its an efficient way to figure out what works best and order that online
forever.
The second reason is that for all the plushy brand
appeal they generate, Guideshops are relatively cheap to run, with their
small footprints and smaller staffs. Bonobos is looking to put down
more locations nationally through the year.
For the designer
Esteban Cortazar, online was an opportunity for rebirth. Cortazar
shuttered his namesake brand when he went to work as Creative Director
of the Emanuel Ungaro, but when he left the fashion house three years
later at age 26, he largely went off the grid. In 2012, he relaunched
his eponymous line through Net-A-Porter and has since gone on to design a
second 18-piece capsule collection for the e-tailer.
In
addition to giving him a wide customer base from the onset and negating
the need for a runway presentation, Net-a-Porter has supported Cortazar
financially. And as the designer told Business of Fashion, the site
places orders based on his sketches, cutting out the need to produce
samples. Though Cortazars collection hasnt moved offline yet, he has had
interest from retailers and plans to go independent of Net-a-Porter in
the future. Whether he goes old school with runway shows and standard
industry production cycles or runs his brand with blend of offline and
e-commerce practices remains to be seen.
Read the full products at http://www.granitetrade.net/.
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